Oregon Wines Column: Views from the Vine: Memorial Day 2005 Writeup Oregon Wines Column: Views from the Vine: Memorial Day 2005 Writeup  
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Oregon Wines Column: Views from the Vine
Memorial Day 2005 Writeup

   

Memorial Day 2005 Writeup

By Matt Mayer

Published on June 30, 2005

I felt disappointed I was only able to get out to the wineries for one day when so many looked like a good time. However, when you have a family there are times you must put your wine agenda on hold and this was one of those weekends. I do feel I was able to pack a nice full day into Saturday and get to a few I have not seen before.  
 
The first winery of the day was ArborBrook Vineyards. This was the first weekend they were open to the public. There were pouring two wines, a bottled Pinot Gris and Point Noir still in the barrel.  
 
Wine: Pinot Gris  
Year: 2004  
Price: 22  
Aroma: vanilla, yeast, fieldish  
Taste: oak, vanilla, toasted, nutty, light acid  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/7  
My Comments: A very good Pinot Gris for a first commercial bottling. This wine will stand up against most light summer fare enjoyed on the back porch or picnic table. You can taste the wine fermented in steel and oak and it gives the wine a near perfect balance.  
 
The two Pinot Noirs to be tasted were very different. One barrel was from a five ton fermentation tank and the other barrel was from a two and a half ton fermentation tank. These experiences are great learning chances. I can’t remember the last time I was able to taste two wines from the same vineyard, made with the same methods, by the same winemaker the only difference being the fermentation process. I have tasted wines from the same grapes and different winemakers or many other combinations but not this one.  
 
This showed me how, all things being done the same, the sheer size of the fermentation tank can affect the wine itself. The wine in the five-ton fermenter was much softer and "feminine." I would say it was ready to be bottled and enjoyed. It showed a huge aggressive cherry aroma and taste and did not have a weak body like one might imagine for only being about six months old. The two and a half ton fermenter’s wine was very different. It was much more "masculine" with a strong tannin effect in the taste. The aroma of the wine was dominated by black licorice and leather. The taste besides having the tannins showed black licorice, leather, tobacco and a very strong structure.  
 
I am hoping ArborBrook bottles some of the five ton fermented Pinot Noir in its own bottle. I know they will blend the two together to create what should be a very great Pinot Noir and, at a price I am guessing is about $30, it is not going to be available for long when it hits the market in the bottle on Thanksgiving 2005.  
 
Anderson Family Vineyard was the next winery for Saturday. I had not heard of or seen any of the wines until this stop. This winery can only be helped by the impressive facilities and view from the winery. The view is of the northern valley and you can see most of Newberg and the rolling hills around it.  
 
Like most new wineries the tastings were not great in numbers but the quality was there in two Chardonnays and two Pinot Noirs. The one thing I did find impressive and refreshing was hearing all the people working at the winery weekend express the owner’s desire to keep the wines priced in a way everyone will be able to afford them and enjoy them. Most new wineries seem to think they are the next winery to have $40 perfect Pinot Noir. If you price it so most can’t buy it, I wish you the best and hope you have a large savings account. Anderson Family Vineyard will not be one of those wineries.  
 
Wine: Chardonnay  
Year: 2003  
Price: 16  
Aroma: grass, pear  
Taste: oak, vanilla, pear  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/7  
My Comments: showed light oakiness, was a nice wine and would be wine to enjoy with some grilled fish  
 
Wine: Chardonnay  
Year: 2002  
Price: 16  
Aroma: strong, yeasty  
Taste: oak, vanilla, acid, lemon  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: This did not tasted like your typical over-oaked Oregon Chardonnay. It had a bit of acid in it that helped bring out a natural Chardonnay taste.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2002  
Price: 24  
Aroma: earthy, black berry  
Taste: berry, leather, beefy, cherry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: What a great food wine and the complexity of the wine just gave it that something most wines seem to be lacking. Still has about five years left in IT.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 24  
Aroma: wax, dark berry  
Taste: acid, tannins, cherry, marionberry, and raspberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: Very similar to the 2002 and this shows the winemaker’s skills will carry over well into each vintage keeping each wine similar to the previous vintage.  
 
Dundee Pinot Station was the next stop. I had not heard OF this location before this weekend and after we arrived I was pleasantly surprised to see Torii Mor and Dobbs Family Estate sharing a building. I have tasted Torii Mor wines in the past but usually it was just one bottle here one bottle there, not a true tasting. I have tasted wines made by Joe Dobbs but not his own wines his way. So this was a chance to see what Joe Dobbs could do when he had complete control of the process.  
 
I decided to start with Joe Dobbs wines and see what he has done.  
 
Wine: Vanjohn Pinot Gris  
Year: 2004  
Price: 18  
Aroma: lemon  
Taste: apple, acid, clean  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/7  
My Comments: Made in steel and has a nice summer taste to it.  
 
Wine: Viognier  
Year: 2003  
Price: 20  
Aroma: lime, lemon  
Taste: oak, acid, sour, tart  
Wine level/Wine Value: 6/6  
My Comments: Viognier is being made by a lot of wineries now and I am starting to get a bit more finicky in my rankings. This was a good wine and you would be happy to drink it but I just did not feel it stood out compared to others I have tasted.  
 
Wine: Grand Assemblage Cuvee Pinot Noir  
Year: 2002  
Price: 20  
Aroma: beef, berry, raisin  
Taste: cranberry, cherry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: A nice Pinot Noir and showed just like the ones he made at Willamette Valley. Not one I think you could cellar for long but could handle about a two-year cellaring.  
 
Wine: Skipper’s Cuvee Pinot Noir  
Year: 2002  
Price: 26  
Aroma: barnyard, acid  
Taste: bright red fruit, acid  
Wine level/Wine Value: 6/6  
My Comments: Somehow this wine seemed to have a high acid level that stood out. I know Pinots have a bit but this time it seemed out of balance. That might be from the Rogue Valley grown Pinot Noir.  
 
Wine: Willamette Valley Black Label Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 50  
Aroma: dark, jammy  
Taste: cranberry, dusty, blackberry, strawberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 9/8  
My Comments: Now this is a Pinot Noir that shows just how great a wine can be when made correctly. My only problem was the price, at $50, it is a bit more than most of us can or will pay for a wine. But if you are looking for that one bottle for that one special occasion, try this one. I don’t think you would be disappointed.  
 
Wine: Grand Assemblage Syrah  
Year: 2002  
Price: 22  
Aroma: dark berry, musty  
Taste: plum, cherry, cranberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: Well, I have seen the wonders Joe Dobbs has done with Pinot Noir and this shows just how great a Syrah he can make. This wine hits all the right places and the price makes it a wine you can buy. Also the structure allows you to buy a case and enjoy it over the next three years safely.  
 
Wine: Fortmiller Syrah  
Year: 2003  
Price: 45  
Aroma: musty, thick, dark berry  
Taste: blackberry, plum, cherry, marionberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: Now this is a wine that needs cellar time. It tasted very well but you get the feeling it needs more time to fully develop into the great wine it will become.  
 
Wine: Late Harvest Viognier  
Year: 2004  
Price: 30  
Aroma: honey, grass  
Taste: not syrupy, tropical, semi-sweet  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: This has to be one of, if not the, best dessert-styled Viognier. Most have been very syrupy or tinny but this one showed neither when tasting. I would go so far as to say not to over chill it or you would lose some of the taste and elegance of it.  
 
Torii Mor was the other winery at this stop. It was nice to be able to just walk across the room and start tasting another quality winery.  
 
Wine: Pinot Gris  
Year: 2004  
Price: 16  
Aroma: vanilla, floral  
Taste: citrus, acid, clear  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
 
 
My Comments: What perfect steel made Pinot Gris, if you like the steel fermented ones.  
 
Wine: Pinot Gris Reserve  
Year: 2004  
Price: 20  
Aroma: field, grass, hay, woodsy  
Taste: lemon, light acid  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: This wine has a bit of steel and oak fermented wine in it and seems to be in perfect balance.  
 
Wine: Chardonnay  
Year: 2004  
Price: 16  
Aroma: butter  
Taste: fruit, light acid, nut, toasted  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: What a great Chardonnay! You can taste the oak from the barrels but not at the loss of the natural taste of the grapes. For those of you like me who would rather taste the grape and not the barrel, this is a Chardonnay to put on your buy list.  
 
Wine: Pinot Blanc  
Year: 2004  
Price: 18  
Aroma: citrus, acid  
Taste: lemon, citrus, acid  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: As the last of the white wines tasted this was just like the first three, a very good wine that showed all the things you want out of it. This wine would do very well with most light summer deck fare.  
 
Wine: Oregon Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 22  
Aroma: wax, rose  
Taste: cranberry, cardboard, musty  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/6  
My Comments: A nice wine but compared to the whites was lacking. It had a good body and nice structure but just seemed lacking in something.  
 
Wine: Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 40  
Aroma: musty, cranberry, plum  
Taste: cranberry, strawberry, bright red fruit  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: I liked everything about this wine but the price but I guess when you make a wine this impressive you should and can charge a bit more for it.  
 
Wine: Olson Vineyard Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 55  
Aroma: red fruit, licorice  
Taste: pepper, plum, raisin, cherry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: Another Pinot Noir that hits all the right spots and that was expected as this is the original vineyard that started it all. Again, great Pinot Noir, great price tag to go along with it.  
 
Wine: Port  
Year: 2003  
Price: 40  
Aroma: viney  
Taste: cherry, strawberry, standard port smell  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/7  
My Comments: A good first attempt at port and based on where this one is, I am expecting future attempts to be really impressive.  
 
After all that tasting in one building I needed some food and water. Lucky for me there was a table of cheese, breads and other foods for snacking on. After getting a bit of food in the stomach and drinking a good amount of water it was on to wine store 614.  
614 wAS pouring wines from Le Cadeau Vineyard and others. This was Le Cadeau’s first public pouring that I was aware of and I wanted to taste them. Like most up and coming wineries there were only two wines but what nice wines they were.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2002  
Price: 33 (I am guessing based on conversations)  
Aroma: barnyard, fruit  
Taste: full berry, tart  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: For the first wine made, an impressive start since the wine showed a full body and long smooth finish. The wine probably has about 3 more years left in it.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 35 (I am guessing based on conversations)  
Aroma: raisin, plum  
Taste: big bold fruit taste, not a fruit bomb but a full taste  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: Being the second wine made you can taste and feel the experience learned in the first vintage. What few things I found lacking or weak in the 2002 Pinot Noir were fixed in the 2003 vintage. I do wonder if the age of the 2002 had to do with a little bit of the weakness.  
 
After tasting the two wines is was off to the last stop of the day -- Chehalem. There were three wineries at this stop: Chehalem, the host, Ribbon Ridge and Stoller. Ribbon Ridge winery is allowed to keep its name even though there is an AVA called Ribbon Ridge by only using grapes grown in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. I hope the deal works out for Ribbon Ridge for in years when they have a tough time with grapes, their wines could suffer.  
 
The actual tasting took place in order of wine types not by winery. I am going to list my notes by winery to make it easier to follow. We will start with the host winery, Chehalem.  
 
Wine: Inox  
Year: 2003  
Price: 17  
Aroma: field, grass, hay, acid  
Taste: lemon, citrus, acid  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: This is another wine for steel made Chardonnay lovers like myself. You get a really good taste for what a Chardonnay grape wine can taste like if you don’t over do the oak.  
 
Wine: Riesling, dry  
Year: 2004  
Price: 21  
Aroma: tropical, weak  
Taste: mineral, pickles, lime, guava  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/6  
My Comments: A good wine but the price is a bit high for a lot of wineries are now starting to make a drier-Styled Riesling. It has a long finish and full body so it was one to stay around long after you finished drinking it.  
 
Wine: Cerise  
Year: 2003  
Price: 18  
Aroma: cherries  
Taste: cherries, very strong cherries, strawberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/8  
My Comments: This wine is 80% Gamay Noir and 20% Pinot Noir and the mixture makes a great wine in this case. If you are looking for that wine for sitting and enjoying on the back porch with some tender slow-Cook beef, I say pick up a bottle or two of this one. It has a long fruity finish and a full body that fills the mouth.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2003  
Price: 27  
Aroma: cherry, rose, beef  
Taste: cherry, marionberry, raspberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 7/7  
My Comments: I am starting to see a theme in Chehalem’s Pinot Noirs, a bold cherry presence in the aroma and taste and this one was no different. The structure of this wine gives it another three years at least and possible five if well-Cellared.  
 
Ribbon Ridge only had one wine pouring today.  
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2002  
Price: 50  
Aroma: raisin, plum, raspberry,  
Taste: cranberry, cherry, raspberry  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/7  
My Comments: What a fruit bomb but it still has some tannins left for aging. This is a buy-a-case wine so you can enjoy it as it develops over the next few years. The only drawback is the price. I am still amazed at the number of over-$40 Pinot Noirs out there and even more surprised by the number of people being able to afford them.  
 
Stoller had three wines to pour, a Chardonnay and Pinot Noirs.  
 
Wine: Chardonnay  
Year: 2004  
Price: 25  
Aroma: vanilla, oak, nutty, almond  
Taste: oak, butter, soft  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/6  
My Comments: Sorry to say it was the typical oaked Chardonnay but it did have a nice body and long finish.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2002  
Price: 42  
Aroma: musty, plum  
Taste: dusty, raisin, cherry, tart  
Wine level/Wine Value: 8/6  
My Comments: Full body and long finish make this a wine that will hold up with most beef grilled dishes you will enjoy over the summer months.  
 
Wine: Pinot Noir  
Year: 2001  
Price: 42  
Aroma: plum, raisin, musty  
Taste: berry, plum, weak, soft  
Wine level/Wine Value: 6/6  
My Comments: I think this wine is about over the hill. It still is showing well but I would rather spend the extra $8 and get the Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir.  
 
I was able to taste a lot of wines in one day and I was lucky not being forced to drive. I really can’t say there were any bad wines but when comparing the DAY'S wines to each other a few stood out. Joe DobBS' Willamette Valley Black Label Pinot Noir, Torii Mor’s 2004 Pinot Gris and Chehalem’s Cerise would be my top three of the day regardless of price.  
 
Wine Level and Wine Value rankings defined:  
 
The Wine Level/Wine Value numbers are on a ten point scale, 10 being the best possible score.  
 
Wine Level is the rank of wine with no regard to price.  
 
The Wine Value number is the ranking taking price into consideration. If the Wine Value is lower than Wine Level it usually means I feel the price is high. If the Wine Value is higher then I feel the wine is a great deal. If they are the same then it is priced where it should be.

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Oregon Wines Column: Views from the Vine: Memorial Day 2005 Writeup